Category: vivien leigh

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Cover Story: Vivien Leigh by Philippe Halsman

Vivien Leigh by Philippe Halsman, 1946

Today, Life.com celebrated the birthday of master celebrity photographer Philippe Halsman. Best known for his “jump” series in which he captured the famous and infamous in mid-air, Latvian-born Halsman began his photography career with French Vogue in the 1930s before enjoying a decades-long partnership with LIFE. During his time with America’s foremost photo new magazine, Halsman shot Vivien Leigh for two covers. He was in awe of Hollywood’s most sought-after actress, but their working relationship proved difficult. Halsman tells his story of photographing an “angel-like star” in his book Sight and Insight (Doubleday, 1972)

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No one who has seen her in Gone with the Wind will be surprised that Vivien Leigh became in my eyes one of the most beautiful women in the world.  I was delighted when Life asked me to photograph her for a cover.

I knew that she suffered from t.b., but I was shocked by her pale and fragile appearance when she entered my studio.  Vivien asked me whether she should put on some rouge, but I saw a strange attractiveness in her transparent paleness and photographed her as she was.  Her features were exquisite, she was full of gentile charm and friendliness and at the end of the sitting I had the feeling that I was photographing something very unusual: an angel-like star.

The shock came when I developed my photographs.  What I saw was not the image of a fragile, delicate angel but that of a tired and sick young woman.  I phoned Vivien and told her it had been a  terrible mistake on my part to photograph her without makeup and I hoped she would pose for me again.  The angel-like voice answered that she understood and that she would come to pose tomorrow.

We used make-up in the second sitting.  Vivien posed with more spirit than in the first sitting, and when her pictures were developed and printed I was delighted with the result.

The telephone rang.  It was Vivien, who was worried about her pictures and wanted to see them.  Whenever I photograph for a magazine my rule is never to show a picture to the sitter before publication.  But how could I say no to an angel, who without complaining left her sick bed to pose for me a second time?

Vivien Leigh by Philippe Halsman for LIFE

Vivien Leigh captured by Philippe Halsman for LIFE, 1946 and 1951

I finished my work and took the best prints to the Waldorf Astoria where she and her husband, Laurence Olivier, were staying.  Although I knew that on doctors’ orders Vivien spent most of the day in bed, I felt a pang of sadness seeing her pale and emaciated in the huge hotel bed.  Fortunately, my pictures showed none of her illness, only her beauty and charm.  With a touch of pride I was showing her my prints when I was struck by the change in her expression.  Instead of and angel I saw a wounded tigress.  “These pictures are terrible,” she said, “and I forbid you to show them to the magazine.  I know your boss, Mr. Luce, personally; if you disobey me, I will destroy you.”

A knock at the door interrupted her.  The hotel waiter appeared with Miss Leigh’s tea and cookies.  Where should I put the tray, Miss Leigh?” he asked.  With a sweet and melodious voice, Vivien answered, “could you, please, put it on the night table.”  The waiter obeyed, looked admiringly at the prostrate angel, deposited the tray and left.  When the door closed, Vivien took my beautiful prints and tore them into little pieces.  I thought of the hours I had spent in the dark room, mumbled a good-bye and left, feeling completely crushed.

On that same evening, Vivien Leigh’s public relations man called me up.  “I know that Vivien has torn up your pictures, but she did not tear up the contacts which you left in the envelope.  Olivier has seen them and he is crazy about them.  By all means, make new prints and submit them to Life.”  I followed his advice, and one photograph, showing Vivien with an alluring Mona Lisa-like smile, became a very successful cover.

Five years later, while in London, I received a cable asking me to make a double portrait of the Oliviers for a Life cover.  The sitting room was to take place in the dressing room of a London theatre.  I was watching Vivien’s expression when I entered the room.  She smiled angel-like and said, “What a great pleasure to see you again!”

Probably because I was still resentful, my plan for the cover was to show only the heads of the couple, with Olivier’s profile covering and eclipsing half of Vivien’s face, since his fame had gradually eclipsed hers.

I placed my sitters in the position I had conceived.  However, during the sitting Vivien moved slightly away from her upstaging husband and looked at him with a charming, adoring expression.  It destroyed my original design but probably resulted in a much better picture.

photography vivien leigh

The colors of of India

Vivien Leigh (right) riding an elephant in India, 1964

India has been on my mind quite often lately. While watching The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (John Madden) and Trishna (Michael Winterbottom) recently, I couldn’t help thinking that the thing I loved most about these two films was the cinematography and the beauty of the Indian landscape. A couple weeks ago, I sat in the library reading through the letters Vivien Leigh wrote to Jack Merivale. In the autumn of 1964, Vivien returned to the East for the first time since she left Darjeeling for London at age 6. Vivien’s letters, some of which were reprinted by Anne Edwards in her 1977 biography, describe her adventures in Nepal and India, the beauty of the people, the landscapes, the culture. Katmandu, Delhi, Madras, and Karanjia were on her list. She wrote with great delight about the temples, funeral pyres on the rivers, friezes of erotica, elephant rides and a journey in the Raj’s plane for breathtaking views of the Himalayas and a close-up look at Everest. It was a “return to her roots” although she never went back to Darjeeling.

Needless to say, all this reading and film viewing has made India jump to the top of my bucket list. Some day, I hope to take my own photos, but for now, I’ll leave you with some stunning images by photojournalist Steve McCurry. Best known for his  striking “Afghan Girl” portrait, McCurry has photographed for National Geographic and other publications for decades. A couple of years ago, he was entrusted with the last-ever-produced roll of Kodachrome film. The images are currently on his website. Whether shooting with film or digital, McCurry expertly captures the colors, faces and lifestyles of one of the most classically fabled countries in Asia.

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What she wore: Vivien Leigh and Oscar fashion

Vivien Leigh Academy Award

At the Oscars, fashion is almost more important than the films. Not many celebrities dare to show up looking like hobos or circus clowns, and when they do, they are slashed by the people of E! as the “worst dressed” abominations of the evening. Never mind that the Oscars are really supposed to be about cinematic achievement. However, it’s true that fashion and the Academy Awards have always gone together.

In 1940, Vivien Leigh was the belle of the ball. Her performance in Gone with the Wind was a guaranteed winner and her ensemble for the evening is still written about in retrospectives about Oscar fashion history. Her dress was designed by Irene Gibbons of the famous Hollywood department store Bullock’s Wilshire. Irene was considered the Coco Chanel of American fashion and frequently dressed the likes of Carole Lombard, Eddie Goetz and Marlene Dietrich. Bronwyn Cosgrave describes Vivien’s dress in detail in the book Made For Each Other: Fashion and the Academy Awards

Irene’s program described Leigh’s Oscar dress, which debuted as look fourteen on a pale blond model, simply as “Red Poppy Evening Gown.” Green-stemmed red poppies exploded like fireworks upon the long chiffon gown. Its vibrant floral print carried on a theme Irene had been exploring for a while. She produced sexy gowns drenched with big, bold blooms including a frisky white dance dress dotted with perky black-eyed Susans in which Ginger Rogers boogied alongside Fred Astaire in 1937’s Shall We Dance. A year later, at a San Francisco hotel party, Marlene Dietrich caused a sensation in a low-cut, spaghetti-strapped Irene frock of white silk enlivened with purple hydrangeas. “The bigger, the better” was Irene’s pattern philosophy.

 …Within its bodice was a light, inner support necessitating that nothing need be worn beneath it. “[Irene’s] soft crêpes and chiffons were meant to be worn without a brassiere—a discreet construction underneath them lifted the breasts delicately,” wrote Hollywood costume expert David Chierichetti of the frocks Irene built for maximum comfort because so many of her movie star clients, like Leigh, spent long days on film sets bound in tight-fitting, corset-topped period costumes.On the night of the twelfth Academy Awards, between Red Poppy Evening Gown and Leigh’s skin mingled merely the rose and jasmine scent of Jean Patou’s Joy, her favorite perfume. She splashed it on and fastened an aquamarine pendant. Olivier had purchased the semiprecious piece in New York from Van Cleef & Arpels, the Fifth Avenue jeweler, and sent it to Leigh in Los Angeles as a token of his affection as she suffered through Wind. On Oscar night it hung from a long gold chain and drew attention to the plunging bodice of Irene’s dress. Like a trophy medallion, it displayed that after a tough seven months of portraying Scarlett O’Hara, Leigh was finally free. She and Olivier set off by limousine to a pre–Academy Awards cocktail party at David Selznick’s sprawling home on Summit Drive. “Everybody was keyed up—they all came in limousines,” recalled Irene Mayer Selznick, David’s wife. Celebrating at Selznick’s lofty abode, Leigh discovered she had won an Academy Award. In banner headlines, the Los Angeles Times’ early edition published results it was meant to print the following day—Wind had set an Academy record, winning an unprecedented nine Oscars. Supercharged by the news, Selznick hustled Leigh, Olivier, Clark Gable, and Olivia de Havilland into the back of a limousine bound for the ceremony at the Ambassador Hotel’s nightclub, the Cocoanut Grove. The Twelfth Academy Awards, February 29, 1940. Veiled in stardust, gowned by Irene, Leigh was ushered into the Ambassador’s lobby by David Selznick as a “near riot of admirers” rushed toward them, wrote Variety’s Alta Durant. Leigh, noted the columnist, was the “star” of an illustrious Academy Awards.

[Note from Kendra] A a color photo by Peter Stackpole  housed in the Margaret Herrick Library in Beverly Hills reveals Vivien’s pendant to have been topaz rather than aquamarine.

Vivien was able to keep the Irene gown and its lightweight material made it an ideal costume to perform in while touring North Africa during the war (see photo below).

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Being Nancy Drew: 5 things I’ve learned from researching the Oliviers

Research materials

My favorite part of writing is not so much the creation of a narrative as the research that is necessary to piece that narrative together. I love rummaging through the stacks (the basement) in libraries for books that have been collecting dust for God knows how long; physically touching paper that was handled by an historical figure who contributed something meaningful to society; looking at personal photos that have never been published;  reading correspondences between fascinating personalities. It’s like history coming to life in my hands and I feel like a proper detective looking for clues to solve some kind of mystery.

I consider myself lucky enough to have been able to scour special collections in Universities and national libraries on both sides of the Atlantic for this particular project. I find archival materials especially significant when researching the life of a person who is no longer alive. (Auto)biographies may tell one version of events, but archival materials are physical evidence — proof — that an event did or didn’t happen as it was later reported. From Hollywood to London (I even went to Birmingham!), I’ve spent hours upon hours over the past three years searching for the answers to the question “Who were Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh?” Here are a few things I’ve learned along the way.

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Vivien Leigh: Becoming Scarlett

Vivien Leigh Scarlett O'Hara Bright Lights Film Journal

There were quite a few of you who expressed interest in reading my MA dissertation “Deconstructing Scarlett: Vivien Leigh and International Film Stardom.” Well, now you can! Sort of. I’m really excited to say that my (edited) first chapter has been published in issue 75 of Bright Lights Film Journal! This piece, titled “Vivien Leigh: Becoming Scarlett” examines Vivien’s position within the British film industry of the 1930s–a time period that is not talked about much when it comes to her career. I’m absolutely tickled pink to be included among so many intelligent film writers. I think this means I can officially call myself a historian, right? 😉

On February 29, 1940, Hollywood’s elite gathered in the famous Cocoanut Grove at the Ambassador Hotel to celebrate the 12th annual Academy Awards. It was a night of many firsts in Hollywood history. Gone with the Wind swept the show with a then-unprecedented ten awards, including Best Picture. Hattie McDaniel became the first African American to win an Academy Award for her moving performance as Scarlett O’Hara’s Mammy, and at the age of twenty-six, Vivien Leigh collected the first of her two career Oscars for bringing Margaret Mitchell’s heroine to life. Leigh had been up against some of the top stars of the studio era including Greta Garbo and Bette Davis. Just as she had run away with the part of Scarlett, Leigh again beat out strong competition to become the first British winner in the Best Actress category. Later that night, Peter Stackpole photographed her placing her statue on the fireplace mantle in her Beverly Hills home. This photo, printed in the March 11, 1940 issue of Life magazine, captures Leigh on the brink of international stardom. It also exemplifies what Richard Dyer terms the “myth of success”: the popular notion that “American society is sufficiently open for anyone to get to the top, regardless of rank.” The odds of a young, unknown hopeful making it on the big screen were slim even in the 1930s. That such an aspirant — and a foreign one, at that — should win the most coveted and publicised female role in Hollywood history was next to impossible…

Read the entire article here!

Special thanks to Belen Vidal and Lawrence Napper, professors of Film Studies at King’s College London for the encouragement along the way, and Gary Morris at Bright Lights for deeming it good enough to publish!